there is no evidence of this in his friendship with Bräker, and it seems that his anti-Protestant tendencies did not become very marked until after Bräker died. It is known from Girtanner's diary that Sulzer and Bräker corresponded for a least six years after this meeting but their correspondence has not survived. (He should not be confused with Heinrich Sulzer, a doctor at Winterthur consulted by Bräker towards the end of his life.)


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"Now I wandered on my way full of sensations of melancholy. I thought over all the uncommon things that I had come upon in Konstanz and Kreuzlingen. First, however, the Paradies once more claimed my attention: fields of fruit trees as far as the eye could see, and others planted with all kinds of vegetables, though for the most part turnips and varieties of greens. No wonder, thought I, that vegetables like that come even to us at such a cheap price, though the freight is greater than the buying price. They are planting not just for a city but for half a country, and the earth seems to bring it forth without undue trouble.

And now I was on the road to Mülheim. Gradually uphill by the paved road past Gottlieben. A good hundred times I had to stop and look round at dear Konstanz and its splendid surroundings. It was a lovely fine autumn day. I could not feast my eyes enough on the charming prospect over Konstanz, over the lake, the island of Reichenau and all the splendid countryside and the villages that lay round it - In Egypt, in the land of Goshen was not as much so pleasing as this, thought I. It is all full of the fruits of the earth - God's blessing everywhere - the vine-covered hills abound with grapes, everywhere there are herds of oxen, cows and sheep - and from there the sound of the bells from Konstanz and all the churches round about still came to my ears - the crowds of church-goers on all the criss-crossing roads and footpaths, coming from all directions, in their best clothes, in many-coloured ranks, boys and girls, young and old all mingled together - these objects all together wakened in me melancholy though pleasant sensations, which I know not how to name or describe.

By chance I also saw, when the church bells had stopped ringing and the roads were empty of churchgoers, youths and men with guns slung on their shoulders, beating through bushes and fields, seeking to take the lives of birds and other game. They are doing just what we do at home, thought I, everyone keeps the Sabbath after his own fashion, after his own desire. But hunting seems to be not quite free here, otherwise these folk would not choose just the time when great numbers of their brothers and sisters are assembled in the houses of prayer to make their offerings to the Supreme Being.

But of all these legions here assembled in the churches, how various may be their motives! Certainly with the majority honest simplicity and custom. O eternal all-encompassing Spirit, who dost glance so clearly and brightly into the most secret corners of the hearts of all the millions of Thy creatures, as clearly as I see the road before my feet, Thou alone knowest it. Perhaps these lads who like the hunt are well-disposed folk, and yet they beat after the birds, while perhaps rascals are sneaking into the church, prentice thieves, to pray for good luck and to study thieves' tricks, envious and misanthropic men are on their knees before Thy face, who curse their brothers in their hearts while they rattle off nonsensical prayers. Thou alone knowest it, Spirit who seest through all. We mortals see what strikes on our sight. But Thou seest only the heart, only the inner will. So deep in thought I wandered on my way, until all these elevating objects were lost to my sight. The road led me upon heights, not mountains like those at home, through woodlands and heaths. The way seemed long to me. For an unknown road that we have never before trodden always seems longer than one we know, though the distance be the same. At last I again saw scattered houses and barns, and saw boys and girls herding cattle and sheep.

Mülheim appeared before my eyes at last, and Frauenfeld on the other side of the Thur. A charming situation. I saw fertile fields and vineyards before me up and down the valley where the Thur flows. Moreover the Thurgau, taken as a whole, is one of the most fertile regions in the


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